Rwanda - Gorillas in the Mist

We woke up so heavy rain. I wasn't too worried as we have had brief rain showers most days that we have in Rwanda. It is after all the light rainy season. I started to get worried two hours later as we were waiting at the Park office and the rain continued at its heavy rate. There was some talk amongst tourists that the gorilla trek may get cancelled due to unsafe muddy conditions. At first I thought that this may be good as the weather could be better tomorrow, then I remembered that we had to book months in advance to get a spot so it would be virtually impossible to rebooki for the next day. Mising out on the gorillas would be extremely disappointing as they were the main reason we had included Rwanda in our trip. Before I had an opportunity to consider this any further, Sam our guide showed up to tell us that the trek was on and that we were going to see the Ntamburu group which has19  gorillas. The group included three silverbacks and three babies (one month and two one year olds). The rain continued for the drive to the start of our hike and for the next two hours. 

The trail was super muddy and slippery with stinging nettles lurking in the foliage on the side of the trail. I tried dancing around the deep mud puddles, but when I mistook mud for a rock I was ankle deep in mud the dance ended and I just walked through the mud. 

The rain stopped just as we met up with the trackers who let us know the the gorillas were  a few minutes away. We left our packs and walking sticks behind and followed our guide a few metres into an opening that was enveloped by mist. I was right behind the guide when he stopped suddenly. I turned to follow his gaze and saw a mother gorilla with her one month baby on her back. I resisted the urge to cry out and instead watched as she ate bamboo shoots seemingly completely oblivious to our presence. 

The baby stayed on her back and watched us with the same level of curiosity that we watched her and her mother. 

As I looked around I saw one of the silverbacks was a few metres behind her enjoying his own patch of bamboo shoots.  

It was hard to move away from them, but out guide urged us on for a closer look at at another of the silverbacks that was feasting a few meters uphill. 

They are HUGE. A silverback can weight 250 kg (550 lbs ). In this group there is one dominant silverback which is the oldest of the the group, his two brothers are second and third in command. He will rule the group until he dies or loses a fight to a silverback from another group that challenges his leadership. With three silverbacks in the group this is unlikely to happen.  Leadership will pass to the second brother. The brothers will not challenge each other for leadership, the only challenge to  will come from outside of the group.

We spent one hour with the gorillas wondering through the group watching the adults eat, rest and walk by us. 

The two one year olds were very playful and entertaining. One kept trying to beat his chest but mostly just flayed his arms rarely making contact with his chest and if he did without enough force to make any sound. 

By the time our hour was up the gorillas were settling in for a nap and the rain started to fall again.