Thursday, 18 December 2014

MERRY CHRISTMAS

Steve and I leave in an hour to catch the bus to Torres del Paine to start our trek. For those of you familiar with the trek, we will do the "W" first and then continue on with the "O".  We will be somewhere near the Paso John Gardner, the highest point on the trail for Christmas. On Christmas day we will be dining on dehydrated food, unless we are at a site with a refugio that has space for dinner. It will our first ever Christmas in a tent, so it will be a memorable one. We will be thinking of you all at Christmas and hoping that you are enjoying a tasty Christmas dinner while surrounded by loved ones. 


MERRY CHRISTMAS everyone!!!!!!
      

Monday, 15 December 2014

ANTARCTICA; The Drake Passage

Most Antarctic Cruises involve crossing  through the dreaded Drake Passage. It starts once you leave the Beagle Channel and covers the landless body of water until reaching the Antarctic Sound. It comes in two extremes, the Drake Lake when the water is calm and the Drake Shake when the seas are rough. Typical crossings are 24 hours or less in calm waters and can be as long as 72 hours in rough seas. Thankfully it was calm on the trip south. This way we didn't spend the the remainder of the trip dreading the return crossing. On the return, we hit moderately rough conditions with 150 km/hr winds and 6 m high waves. Many have experienced much worse conditions but this was enough to significantly alter life on board.

Steve discovered that he is not a seaman. He spent 3 days in bed reading as lying down was the most comfortable position for him.  The calories that he thought he would need to work off after 11 days at sea haven't been consumed. Jackie faired much better. She was able to move around, attend lectures and still had an appetite. She has calories to burn!!!

These little guys were not at all phased by the weather. When they are not on shore mating and taking care of eggs, they can spend months at a time on the open ocean without ever touching land. 


ANTARCTICA; The People

PlThe crew on any Antarctic Ship are a unique collection of personalities. The most dynamic personality on the ship was, Brent the penguin specialist. HIs funky hair style and his penguins calls made us think that he had actually been a penguin in a previous life. 


Delphine, the expedition director definitely had the most difficult job. She was the one to break the sad news that we wouldn't be able to make it to the Emperor Penguin Rookery and to keep us updated the day that it took 11 attempts before a shore landing was possible. 


The rest of the expedition crew were all very knowledgeable and friendly. They took turns giving lectures on a number of antarctic related topics including history, marine life, birds and research stations.

Our captain, Ernesto Barria, was very experienced and was described by one of the expedition staff as the only captain willing to push far into the Weddell Sea to see if passage was possible.


Our fellow travelling companions were likewise a varied sort. Some, like us, were on their first polar voyage while others were veterans having been three or more times before. There were a group of twenty somethings who were on board with mothers, fathers or both parents, an older french woman who was the only french speaking passenger on board, the single women were young unless travelling with a sister, in which case they were older. The young single guys were travelling with a parent or parents while the older single guys were not.  The youngest was a 14 year old Israeli boy here with his parents.The oldest was a 90 year old Swiss man, with the  average age was about 55. Of the 95 guests on board, there was one other Canadian, Byron from Kelowna, a handful of Americans, a family of 3 Israeli's, 2 Russians and the rest were European. By Tuesday we definitely knew who the assholes were (For those of you unfamiliar with this concept, on weeklong ski trips: "if you don't know who the asshole is by Tuesday, it's you'* This phenomenon can be applied to any group gathering of a week or longer). On our trip, both  candidates were American. Every time one of them  spoke up, which was often, you could feel the rest of the passengers roll their eyes in unison and silently groan.  

Our favourite group on board were the Aussies. The daughter (a twenty something) had been obsessed with visiting the Antarctic since she was a child. For years she had talked about going with her Dad and would leave subtle hints .....like antarctic cruise brochures lying around the house  for him to find. 


In November,  after travelling through South America she arrived in Ushuaia to discover the last minute sales office for Antarctic cruises. She called her Dad to tell him she was booking a trip and he decided that he would join her. The trip was his first time to travel outside of Australia, to be in temperatures colder than 12 C and to experience snow. Despite being cold for most of the trip, he has had a fantastic time. The next phase of his adventure is his ever first backpacking trip on the "W" Torres del Paine, Patagonia. 
We had a lot of fun with the Aussies. One day the sun came out, the wind was completely calm and the day was very pleasant. I told Brian that this was practically tropical. He called me a "f'ng retard"!  From an Aussie, this a term of endearment and comradeship! Brian admitted that he spent the entire trip freezing to death. We had a commonwealth snow ball fight on one of the ice floes, and declared it a draw. 
Matthias from Germany was one of our other favourite people. He reminded me a lot of our nephew Markiyan - young, smart, good looking, super fun and he liked to party! His solution to seasickness was to never be sober enough to let it bother him!


There have been plenty of opportunities to meet people, learn about their lives and exchange future travel ideas. Our plans for the last month of our trip are very open and we may incorporate some of the places in Chile that we have learned about from our fellow travellers.


ANTARCTICA: The Activities

LMORE is what we both would have asked for, but then again we are self acknowledged excitement junkies. Jackie's favourite activity was the helicopter flights. 


The takeoffs and landings from the ship deck were exciting. We flew in a 5 seater chopper that was configured with the two rear seats both facing the side windows. 


The day we flew was one of our warm weather days. The pilot started with an overview of the ice bergs from above and then circled down lower and lower until we were flying at eye level with huge towering icebergs. 




In the afternoon we did a zodiac cruise through the same terrain but viewing the icebergs from yet another perspective. 




Steve's favourite was walking on an an ice floe and building a snowman.The ice floe was 2 m thick and 500m x 500m. The ship pushed it's bow into it to test the strength. 



The snowman was a huge hit with the other passengers, in particular the Aussies. 



The other activities included the ship anchoring


ice climbing (all of 5m),  


zodiac water tours 




and short hikes. The hikes were predominantly penguin viewing based, but we did have the opportunity to hike up to lip of a crater on Deception Bay. 


The most memorable activity was the POLAR SWIM in Deception Bay because it was soooo frigginnnnn' cold!!  


ANTARCTICA: Seals and Whales

When the seas were calm it was fun to be outside taking in the scenery and watching marine life swimming or floating by on icebergs. 


We saw a few pods of Orcas 


and Humpback whales. 


Zodiac cruising and landings were great opportunities to see seals.   

A cute little leopard seal

Crabeater Seals

Weddell  Seal

and a juvenile Elephant seal

ANTARCTIC - The Comfort

O


The ship we were on, the Ortelius, is not the most luxurious of ships, but it is one of the few with helicopters. 


Not one helicopter as expected, but three. As with most ships, it had zodiacs, 10 in total. The ship was built in Poland and first used as a Russian Research Vessel. It was then converted to a cruise ship to be used for "expedition cruising". It is advertised as being, "not luxurious, but very comfortable". 

Our ship could break through up to 2 m of solid ice. It could also push ice bergs, which was very impressive!




The ship was fully sold out, but one couple was unable to make the journey. As a result, we were able to upgrade from a porthole cabin to a twin cabin with three windows on the newly renovated 5th floor.  


We ended up spending more time than expected in our room, so it was nice to have the extra luxury and space. 

The dining room was split in two so that everyone was able to dine at the same time but in two adjacent rooms. Breakfasts and lunches were served buffet style with plated dinners. The meals exceeded expectations.

We kept up the goal of enjoying a bottle of champagne in each country. 

We had a bottle of Simsonsig champagne that we purchased in South Africa. It was a well travelled bottle of champagne having travelled on 6 flights, 1 bus and 1 boat before it's cork was finally launched. As tempting as it was to launch the cork in the Antarctic Sound, we honoured the " leave no trace" ethic and carefully uncorked it in our cabin. 

As an anniversary gift, Marlon, the ship's baker, made a  beautiful cake. 


Unfortunately, the day that the cake was baked was one of our roughest days at sea. Steve was feeling seasick so missed dinner. Marlon and Michael, the guest services coordinator, brought the cake to our room. Steve felt good as long as he was lying down. He enjoyed cake in bed, followed by creme brûlée. It may have been one of his favourite suppers !!

ANTARCTICA - A Real Adventure

One of the goals of the trip was to visit an Emperor Penguin Rockery. The plan was to anchor about 40 km from Snow Hill, travel by chopper to within 45 minutes of the rookery and then walk the remaining distance. Three days were allotted, allowing for three attempts. To get to Snow Hill we had to navigate through the Weddell Sea. We initially made good progress, but as we progressed south,  the ice pack became more dense and the water between ice bergs disappeared until there was nothing but solid thick ice. 


Our speed dropped from 25km/hr to 2 km/hour. The captain tried three different routes into the pack ice before concluding that it continuing on was impossible. The ice was simply too thick. 



It was disappointing to learn that we would be unable to make it to the rookery. However, it was quite extraordinary to experience the solid ice pack...... to feel the power of the ship's engine grinding forward,  to watch cracks form in the thick ice and to listen as the steel hull carved through the ice only to come to a dead halt.

In the Antarctic nothing is usual, every trip is unique. The weather, ice and wind change constantly. Our journey took us into the vast, empty solitude of endless pack ice, then to high winds with huge waves and finally to scenes of wind sculpted ice bergs under sunny, windless skies.

Our first views of the Antarctic Peninsula


Reaching the peninsula by zodiac


A beautiful day cruising the iceflows ......aka the calm before the storm.



The next day with high winds and waves crashing on the bow of the ship. This photo was taken from the Bridge with winds of 50 km/hr. The winds were as strong as 150 km/hr but no passengers were permitted on the bridge at that time.


Icebergs floating in and around the ship.  


Icebergs as viewed from the air while on a helicopter ride in the Weddell Sea.


A beautiful sunny day heading toward Discovery Bay 



Views of the crater and surrounding area on Half Moon Bay.